The Unexpected Benefits of Going Substrate-Free

I still remember the raised eyebrows and skeptical looks I got at my local fish store when I mentioned I was planning a substrate-free but lush and green planted tank. “That’s going to be pretty much impossible,” the store owner said, shaking his head. “Plants need substrate to grow. It’s like trying to grow a garden without soil.” Five years and countless thriving tanks later, I love bringing those same skeptics to my home to show them the lush underwater gardens I’ve created – all without a single grain of substrate.

My journey into substrate-free aquascaping may have started out of a need for a new challenge but it surprised me in many ways. Without substrate, my tanks maintained crystal-clear water for longer periods. The absence of substrate eliminated a major hiding place for detritus and waste, making maintenance simpler and more effective. Water parameters stayed more stable without the influence of decomposing organic matter in the substrate. Perhaps most importantly, I found myself free to create aquascapes that weren’t bound by traditional bottom-up design constraints.

In short, going substrate-free offers several compelling advantages such as:

• Crystal-clear water that stays cleaner longer
• Easier maintenance with no substrate vacuuming
• Fewer hiding spots for pest snails
• More stable water parameters
• Lower setup costs
• Unique artistic possibilities

Here Are A Few Plant Options for Your Substrate-Free Paradise

Not all aquatic plants are created equal and only a few are suited for long term success in a substrate-free tank. In my experience a few plants adapted beautifully to this unconventional approach, while others struggled. Through years of trial and error, I’ve compiled what I consider the definitive list of plants that not only survive but thrive in substrate-free environments. Let me walk you through my tried-and-tested favorites.

The Obvious Ones

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Image above, a free floating java fern in my 30 gallon tank.

The unsung hero of substrate-free setups, Java Fern has been my reliable companion since day one. This versatile plant features distinctive dark green leaves that can range from narrow to broad, depending on the variety. What makes it perfect for substrate-free tanks is its rhizome – a thick, horizontal stem that actually prefers to remain above the growing surface. What fascinates me most is how the plant reproduces – tiny plantlets emerge directly from the leaves, making propagation really easy. Different varieties offer stunning variations: ‘Windeløv’ with its enchanting lace-like leaf tips, ‘Narrow’ with its sleek, ribbon-like leaves, and ‘Trident’ sporting leaves that fork dramatically.

Aquascaping Ideas:
I’ve found Java Fern to be incredibly versatile in design. Attach it to driftwood branches to create the impression of an underwater tree, or secure it to rocks at different heights to develop a natural-looking terraced effect. For a stunning focal point, try grouping multiple varieties together – the contrast between needle leaf, trident, and broad leaf varieties can create impressive depth.

Ideal Parameters:
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Not required but responds well to supplementation
• Fertilization: Light to moderate
• Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

The Obvious Ones

Anubias (Various Species)

If Java Fern is the reliable worker bee of substrate-free tanks, Anubias is the crown jewel. It has a thick, waxy, and almost plastic-like in appearance, with a deep green color that seems to absorb light rather than reflect it. The leaves emerge from the rhizome in a rhythmic pattern. The smallest variety, Anubias nana ‘Petite’, produces leaves barely larger than a fingernail, while Anubias barteri can showcase leaves as large as playing cards. The surface of each leaf features a distinctive network of veins that create natural patterns. New leaves emerge tightly rolled and light green. They slowly unfurl over days, darkening to match their mature siblings.

Aquascaping Ideas:

My favorite technique with Anubias is creating what I call “living walls” – attaching multiple plants to vertical surfaces like slate or lava rock. The contrast between the dark green leaves and hardscape materials can be stunning. For nano tanks, I often use Anubias nana ‘Petite’ to create the illusion of miniature trees by attaching them to small branches or elevated rocks.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 72-82°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate (avoid direct bright light)
• CO2: Optional
• Fertilization: Light
• Growth Rate: Slow

The anubais plant is for sale on Amazon. Tap here for current price.

Bucephalandra (Various Species)

You can buy Bucephalandra from Amazon. Tap here or the image for the current price. 

A relative newcomer to the aquascaping world, “Buce” has quickly become my secret weapon for adding color and texture to substrate-free setups. Each plant is like a living jewel, with leaves that seem to change color depending on how light hits them. The leaves are typically small, ranging from rounded to elongated shapes, and possess an almost metallic quality that can produce stunning blues, purples, and even pinks under the right lighting conditions. The surface of each leaf has a unique texture – some varieties show pronounced hammering (like tiny dimples across the surface), while others are smooth and glossy. New leaves often emerge in spectacular colors – bright pink or deep purple – before maturing to their final shade. The rhizome creeps along surfaces like a miniature vine, producing leaves that overlap and create dense bushes no larger than a golf ball in most varieties.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I love using Bucephalandra to create accent points in my hardscape. Their small size makes them perfect for filling gaps between rocks or creating transition areas between larger plants. For a stunning effect, try placing different varieties in close proximity – the varying leaf shapes and colors can create beautiful natural contrast.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-84°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light to moderate
• Growth Rate: Very slow

The Buce plant above is for sale on Amazon. Tap here to visit the sellers store and see current price. 

Bolbitis (Bolbitis heudelotii)

Bolbitis heudelotii can be purchased from Amazon by tapping here or tapping the image.

Often overlooked, Bolbitis can create an enchanting forest-like atmosphere in any tank. The leaves are divided into smaller leaflets, creating a complex, layered appearance that adds tremendous depth to your aquascape. What makes Bolbitis truly magical is its transparency – when backlit, the leaves take on an almost ghostly appearance, with their intricate vein structure clearly visible. New growth starts as a tight, reddish-brown coil that slowly unfurls into the characteristic deep green fronds. The texture of each leaf is uniquely tactile – slightly rough to the touch, with a semi-glossy finish that catches and plays with light in the aquarium.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve had great success using Bolbitis as a mid-ground to background plant, attached to vertical surfaces or elevated hardscape. Its lace-like appearance makes it excellent for creating depth and shadow effects. Try positioning it where your filter output creates gentle movement – the swaying fronds add life to your aquascape.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 70-84°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Moderate
• CO2: Beneficial for optimal growth
• Fertilization: Moderate
• Growth Rate: Moderate

Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)

Buy Christmas Moss from Amazon by tapping here.

While many aquatic mosses can work in substrate-free setups, Christmas Moss stands out with its distinctive growth pattern that resembles miniature Christmas trees laid on their sides. Each strand develops with perfect symmetry, branching out in regular intervals to create triangular formations that overlap and interweave.

The color ranges from emerald to deep forest green, with new growth appearing in lighter shades that create natural highlights. Under optimal conditions, the moss develops a plush, carpet-like texture.

The individual strands can grow to form dense mats that create their own microenvironment, perfect for tiny aquatic creatures.

Aquascaping Ideas:

One of my favorite techniques is using Christmas Moss to create natural-looking transitions between hardscape elements. Attach it to thin fishing line or stainless steel mesh to create “moss walls,” or let it grow over wood and rock to soften harsh edges. For a particularly striking effect, try creating moss “waterfalls” by securing it to elevated hardscape elements.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light
• Growth Rate: Moderate

Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Buy Hygrophila Pinnatifida from Amazon by tapping here.

One of the most remarkable plants in my substrate-free collection, Hygrophila pinnatifida defies conventional wisdom by thriving when attached to hardscape despite how it looks. Its leaves grow in a spiral pattern around the stem, creating a natural cork-screw effect that adds dynamic movement to any aquascape.

This plant can adapt to different conditions well. Under high light, the leaves remain compact and intensely colored, while in lower light they stretch out and take on a more greenish hue.

The plant’s ability to produce strong aerial roots makes it perfect for substrate-free setups, as these roots quickly attach to any surface they come across.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve had spectacular results using H. pinnatifida as a statement piece in mid-ground positions. Try attaching it to vertical surfaces where it can cascade downward, creating a waterfall effect with its distinctive leaves. For a unique look, attach it to the upper portions of driftwood and let it grow downward, creating natural “branches” with its stems.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 70-82°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Moderate to high
• CO2: Highly recommended
• Fertilization: Moderate to heavy
• Growth Rate: Moderate to fast

Weeping Moss (Vesicularia ferriei)

Buy weeping moss from Amazon by tapping here or the image.

Weeping Moss stands out in the aquascaping world for its distinctive downward growth pattern, from which it derives its name. Unlike other aquatic mosses that tend to grow outward or upward, this species creates elegant, cascading strands. Each strand features tiny leaves arranged in a way that creates a delicate, feather-like appearance. The moss produces a deep, rich green color, with new growth appearing as lighter, emerald tips that add wonderful depth to the overall display.

Aquascaping Ideas:

This moss truly shines when used to create vertical elements in your aquascape. I frequently attach it to elevated hardscape pieces like driftwood or rocks, allowing its characteristic weeping growth to form natural-looking green curtains. It’s particularly effective when used on overhanging branches or the upper portions of stone arrangements, where its downward growth can create the impression of ancient hanging gardens. For a dramatic effect, try creating moss “waterfalls” by attaching it to high points in your hardscape and allowing it to grow downward. I also this to create carpets (more on this later).

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Light: Low to high (adapts well)
• CO2: Not required but promotes fuller growth
• Fertilization: Light to moderate
• Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

Mini Pellia (Riccardia chamedryfolia)

This diminutive plant, resembling tiny coral formations more than typical aquarium plants, has become my go-to choice for adding texture at the micro level. Each plant consists of minuscule branching structures that form dense, dark green cushions no more than a few millimeters tall. Under magnification, you’ll see that each branch divides repeatedly, creating intricate fractal patterns that catch and hold tiny bubbles of oxygen, making the plant appear to sparkle under aquarium lighting. The texture is unique – somewhat firm and springy to the touch, unlike the soft nature of most aquatic mosses.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I love using Mini Pellia to create the impression of age and depth in an aquascape. Attach small portions to crevices in rocks or wood to simulate natural algae growth, or create entire carpets on flat surfaces. For a particularly striking effect, try placing it in areas where it will receive direct water flow – the tiny branches will wave gently, creating a hypnotic effect.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-79°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light
• Growth Rate: Very slow

Subwassertang (Lomariopsis lineata)

Perhaps the most unusual plant in my substrate-free arsenal, Subwassertang looks like something from an alien world. It grows in irregular, branching patterns that form dense clumps of small, round-edged leaves. The color is a distinctive brilliant green. What makes it particularly interesting is its growth pattern – it grows in a three-dimensional fashion, creating ball-like structures that can be shaped and pruned into various forms. The texture is firm yet flexible, with individual fronds that feel almost plastic-like to the touch.

Aquascaping Ideas:

Create natural-looking bushes by attaching it to small pieces of hardscape, or let it grow into free-floating spheres that can be positioned anywhere in the tank. One of my favorite techniques is to use it as a transition element between different hardscape materials, where its unusual texture helps blend distinct elements together.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 5.5-8.0
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Optional
• Fertilization: Light
• Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

Creeping Moss (Vesicularia sp.)

While different from its Christmas Moss cousin, Creeping Moss has earned its place in my substrate-free designs through its unique growth pattern. Instead of growing in triangular fronds, it produces long, straight shoots that hug the surface they’re attached to, creating a different aesthetic entirely. The individual strands are finer than those of Christmas Moss, creating a more delicate appearance, while the color is a slightly lighter shade of green. New growth appears as tiny bright green tips that contrast beautifully with the mature growth.

Aquascaping Ideas:

This moss excels at creating natural-looking edges and borders in your aquascape. I often use it to outline the edges of hardscape elements, creating clean lines that soften over time. For a stunning effect, try attaching it to raised hardscape elements where it can create straight, vertical curtains of green. It’s also excellent for creating moss trees when attached to small branches, as its growth pattern creates more realistic-looking “branches” than other moss species.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 65-82°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light

Growth Rate: Moderate

Adding Floating Plants

Image above is Frogbit.
You can buy Frogbit from Amazon. Tap here or the picture.

While not technically “attached,” floating plants can add another dimension to substrate-free setups. They’re like the cherry on top of your aquascape, adding dimension while helping control nutrients. Through trial and error, I’ve discovered the best ways to manage different species:

1. Amazon Frogbit:
   • • Create floating borders using airline tubing to contain spread
     • Trim roots when they reach 4 inches for aesthetic purposes
     • Remove older leaves to maintain plant health
     • Perfect for creating dappled light effects
     • Critical Management: These can spread very quickly. Never allow coverage to exceed 50% of surface area; create clear “windows” above highlight-demanding plants
2. Red Root Floaters:
   • • Position under direct light for best coloration
     • Remove dead leaves promptly to prevent nutrient spikes
     • Maintain good surface movement to prevent overcrowding
     • Group in clusters for dramatic effect
     • Light Management: Regularly thin to maintain 40-60% surface coverage; rotate clusters to prevent permanent shading
3. Salvinia:
   • • Regular thinning is crucial (I do this weekly)
     • Create “highways” of clear water for light penetration
     • Use a floating ring to maintain desired coverage
     • Perfect for nutrient control in new setups
     • Coverage Control: Divide surface into quadrants and maintain clear paths between them

One problem you can run into with these floating options is their growth rate. Regardless of species, the key to successful floating plant management lies in preventing excessive coverage. I never allow floating plants to cover more than 50% of the water surface, with 30-40% coverage often being ideal. This requires regular monitoring and maintenance – I find that removing small amounts daily works better than major clearing sessions. I’ve developed a system of creating designated “light zones” using clear acrylic dividers, which helps maintain adequate light for plants below while still enjoying the benefits of floating plants.

Watch for signs of light deficiency in the plants below, such as elongation or pale growth. These are early warnings that your floating plant coverage needs adjustment. Remember that every tank has its own balance point – what works in one setup might need adjustment in another.

Image below is a Red Root Floater Plant. You can buy Red Root Floaters by tapping here or the image.

Cavet

Remember, while these plants might be less common in substrate-free setups, they’re some of my favorite “secret weapons” for creating unique and striking aquascapes. The key to success with these species lies in providing stable water parameters and being patient during the initial attachment phase.

How To Keep Plants Anchored Without A Substrate

Successful plant attachment in a substrate-free tank is equal parts science and art. It’s like being an underwater architect – every plant needs a solid foundation, even if that foundation isn’t traditional substrate.

My go-to method, and what I consider the gold standard, is aquarium-safe super glue gel. Yes, you read that right – super glue! The gel version is particularly forgiving underwater and forms a strong bond almost instantly. I’ll never forget the look of horror on my friend’s face when I first pulled out a tube of super glue near my aquarium, but now he’s a convert too. The trick is to apply tiny dots of glue to a dry section of hardscape, attach your plant, and hold it in place for about 30 seconds. The white residue that forms is completely harmless and will disappear within a few days.

For more delicate plants like mosses, I’m a big fan of the cotton thread method. Dark-colored cotton thread will naturally decompose over 6-8 weeks – just enough time for the plant to establish its own hold. Creating a crisscross pattern with the thread provides the best anchoring, like creating a tiny seat belt for your plants.

Stainless steel mesh has become my secret weapon for creating “instant” moss walls. Simply sandwich the moss between two pieces of mesh, and you’ve got a removable, adjustable plant panel that can be positioned anywhere in your tank.

Here’s a pro tip I learned the hard way: always prepare your hardscape attachment points by roughing them up slightly with sandpaper. Those tiny scratches give the plants’ natural anchoring roots something to grab onto, significantly improving their long-term attachment success rate.

Creating Depth Without Substrate: The Art of Hardscape

Without substrate to build height and slopes, creating depth in a substrate-free tank requires a different approach entirely. I learned this lesson the hard way with my first attempt, which ended up looking flat and uninspiring. The breakthrough came when I started thinking about the tank as a three-dimensional canvas rather than a traditional garden.

Dragon stone became my primary building material, not just for its attractive appearance but for its incredible versatility. The stone’s porous surface provides perfect attachment points for plants, while its irregular shapes allow for stable stacking. In my current display tank, I’ve created a series of terraces using carefully positioned dragon stone pieces. Each level hosts different plant species, creating a natural transition from foreground to background despite the absence of substrate.

Spider wood adds another dimension entirely to substrate-free designs. Its branching structure creates natural platforms at different heights, perfect for attaching epiphytes and mosses. I often combine multiple pieces to create complex structures that reach from the bottom to near the surface. These wooden frameworks serve as both the architectural support for plants and natural-looking hideouts for fish.

Mastering Water Column Fertilization

Without substrate acting as a nutrient reservoir, maintaining proper fertilization becomes crucial. My early attempts at substrate-free setups taught me this lesson through yellowing leaves and stunted growth. The solution came in developing what I call the “daily micro-dosing” approach.

Rather than following the traditional method of large weekly doses, I break down the weekly fertilizer amount into small daily additions. This maintains more stable nutrient levels and better mimics natural conditions. The transformation in plant health was dramatic – within weeks of switching to this method, I noticed improved color, stronger growth, and better overall plant vitality.

Iron supplementation proved particularly important in substrate-free setups. Many of my plants, especially the red and colorful varieties, showed their best coloration with consistent but modest iron supplementation. The key was finding the sweet spot – too little resulted in pale growth, while too much invited algae problems.

Essential Nutrients

Macronutrients:

• • Nitrogen (N): 10-20 ppm
  • Phosphorus (P): 1-2 ppm
  • Potassium (K): 20-30 ppm

Micronutrients:

• • Iron (Fe): 0.1-0.5 ppm
  • Magnesium (Mg): 10-20 ppm
  • Trace elements: As per fertilizer instructions

A Few Advanced Techniques

Creating Professional Moss Carpets

One of my proudest innovations is developing a method for creating lush moss carpets without substrate. Here’s my detailed process:

1. Preparation Phase:
   • • Cut stainless steel mesh into manageable sections (I find 4×4 inches ideal)
     • Sand down any sharp edges (your future self will thank you during maintenance)
     • Create gentle waves in the mesh for a more natural look
     • Clean thoroughly with vinegar and rinse well
2. Attachment Phase:
   • • Separate moss into small, thin portions (about the size of a quarter)
     • Spread this evenly across the mesh (about 2mm thick)
     • Secure with fishing line in a diagonal pattern
     • Create multiple small sections rather than one large piece for easier maintenance
3. Growth and Maintenance:
   • • Position under moderate light
     • Trim regularly at 45-degree angles to encourage horizontal growth
     • Remove any yellowing portions immediately
     • Supplement thin areas with fresh moss as needed

For substrate-free moss carpets, Weeping Moss (Vesicularia ferriei) is your best bet – it grows downward naturally, creates dense coverage, and attaches firmly to mesh or hardscape. While Taiwan Moss and Christmas Moss can also work, they’re trickier to maintain as carpets, and I’d definitely avoid Java Moss which grows too chaotically for this purpose and can quickly turn your carefully planned carpet into an underwater jungle.

Maintaining Your Substrate-Free Aquascape

Establishing a substrate-free planted tank is just the first step. Keeping it lush and green takes some effort as well. Let’s break down what this involves.

Water Changes

Water changes form the cornerstone of any successful aquascape maintenance routine. A weekly water change of 30-50% provides the sweet spot for maintaining water quality while preventing dramatic parameter shifts. I always ensure the replacement water matches the tank temperature within 2-3 degrees to prevent stress on both plants and any livestock. The new water should be thoroughly dechlorinated and allowed to age for at least a few hours before use, which helps stabilize parameters and allows gases to reach equilibrium.

Plant Care

Plant maintenance in a substrate-free system requires a particularly delicate touch. Each week, I carefully inspect every plant group, looking for signs of stress or decay. Yellowing or transparent leaves need to be removed promptly – they’re not just unsightly but can become nutrient sinks that feed algae. Trimming is as much about shaping as it is about maintaining health. I focus on maintaining the desired shape while encouraging dense, compact growth. This often means removing longer stems to promote branching and keeping fast-growing species in check to prevent them from overshadowing slower growers.

Note: A crucial aspect often overlooked is checking plant attachments. What starts as a slight loosening can quickly become a floating plant if left unchecked. Once a month, I gently test each attachment point, paying special attention to areas with strong water flow or plants that have grown significantly since their initial placement.

Overall Inspection

Equipment maintenance might seem mundane, but it’s vital for system stability. Filter cleaning shouldn’t be overlooked – I typically clean mechanical filtration weekly, but avoid over-cleaning biological media to preserve beneficial bacteria. A thorough inspection of all equipment, including checking impellers, airline connections, and CO2 diffusers (if used), can prevent system failures before they occur.

Regular parameter testing becomes second nature over time. I maintain a testing log to track trends, not just absolute values. This has helped me spot potential issues before they become problems countless times. Key parameters to monitor include pH, nitrates, and in high-tech setups, CO2 levels via pH drop

Troubleshooting Common Challenges

Even with a fastidious maintenance schedule, problems can arise but with the right know-how, you can tackle them successfully.

The Battle Against Algae

Algae issues in substrate-free systems often manifest differently than in traditional aquascapes. Rather than appearing on the substrate, they typically start on hardscape or plant surfaces. The cause usually traces back to an imbalance between light intensity, nutrient availability, and plant uptake. Successful prevention involves maintaining consistent CO2 levels (in high-tech setups), ensuring stable fertilization, and most importantly, keeping light intensity in check.

When algae does appear, I resist the urge to make dramatic changes. Instead, I focus on slightly reducing light intensity while maintaining good plant growth through appropriate fertilization. Manual removal during water changes, combined with spot treatment using hydrogen peroxide on hardscape elements, has proven effective without risking plant health.

Dealing With Plant Detachment

Plant detachment issues often stem from initial attachment techniques. I’ve discovered that success lies in understanding each plant’s growth pattern and planning accordingly. For stem plants, creating multiple attachment points along the stem rather than just at the base provides better stability as the plant grows. For rhizome plants like Anubias or Java Fern, ensuring the rhizome isn’t buried while securing it firmly to the hardscape prevents both rot and detachment.

Cotton thread works well for temporary attachment of slow-growing species, while fishing line provides more permanent security for fast-growing or larger plants. The key is to attach firmly enough to prevent movement but not so tight as to restrict growth.

Selecting Livestock for Substrate-Free Systems

You can buy many different types of fish from Amazon. Tap here or the image.

When it comes to fish and invertebrates, the absence of substrate might seem limiting, however, it actually opens up unique opportunities to observe natural behaviors and creates especially striking displays of schooling fish. The key is selecting species that will thrive in open water spaces while being gentle with delicate plant attachments.

Fish Species

Schooling/Shoaling Fish

• Ember Tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae)
• Tiny size prevents plant damage
• Striking red coloration
• Tight schooling behavior creates dynamic movement
• Celestial Pearl Danios (Danio margaritatus)
• Peaceful nature
• Beautiful spotting pattern
• Prefers upper to middle water levels
• Green Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon simulans)
• More subtle than regular neons
• Excellent schooling behavior
• Less likely to nibble on plants than their cousins
• Chili Rasboras (Boraras brigittae)
• Miniature size perfect for nano tanks
• Brilliant red coloration
• Gentle with all plants

Mid-Level Swimmers

• Harlequin Rasboras (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)
• Hardy and adaptable
• Peaceful temperament
• Creates beautiful copper-colored displays
• Pearl Gourami (Trichopodus leerii)
• Graceful movement
• Peaceful disposition
• Helps control surface biofilm
• Lambchop Rasboras (Trigonostigma espei)
• Similar to Harlequins but smaller
• Excellent for medium-sized tanks
• Strong schooling instinct

Upper Level Specialists

• Marble Hatchetfish (Carnegiella strigata)
• Unique body shape
• Stays near surface
• Won’t disturb plant attachments
• Clown Killifish (Epiplatys annulatus)
• Beautiful patterning
• Perfect for nano tanks
• Natural insect control

Invertebrates

Shrimp

• Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)
• Excellent algae control
• Won’t damage healthy plants
• Very active during day
• Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)
• Striking coloration
• Prolific breeders
• Constant plant maintenance
• Blue Dream Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. blue)
• Beautiful contrast with plants
• Same care as Cherry shrimp
• Active plant debris cleanup

Snails

• Nerite Snails (Neritina species)
• Superior algae control
• Cannot reproduce in freshwater
• Multiple color varieties available
• Rabbit Snails (Tylomelania species)
• Gentle on plants
• Interesting behavior
• Help process larger debris

Specialty Invertebrates

• Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)
• Fascinating filter feeding behavior
• Won’t disturb plant attachments
• Beautiful fan display while feeding
• Thai Micro Crabs (Limnopilos naiyanetri)
• Tiny and peaceful
• Won’t climb or damage plants
• Interesting behavior to observe

Special Considerations

• Avoid bottom-dwelling fish that may become stressed without substrate
• Select species that won’t grow large enough to dislodge plants
• Consider fish that naturally inhabit heavily planted areas
• Choose invertebrates that can climb on hardscape and plants
• Maintain appropriate group sizes for schooling species
• Consider the adult size in relation to tank volume

Wrapping This Up

After years of maintaining both traditional and substrate-free tanks, I’m convinced that substrate-free setups represent not just a viable alternative to traditional aquascaping, but in many ways, a more satisfying one. The clarity of the water, the unique aesthetic possibilities, and the simplified maintenance are all great positives.

Every time I look at my tanks, I’m reminded that sometimes the best innovations come from questioning the “rules” we take for granted. Who says you need substrate to create a beautiful planted tank? Nature certainly doesn’t – some of the most stunning aquatic plants in the world grow without it. Maybe it’s time we took a page from nature’s book and started thinking outside the substrate box.

Success in this hobby isn’t about following every rule – it’s about understanding principles and applying them creatively. A substrate-free tank might seem unconventional, but it opens up a world of possibilities that traditional setups can’t match. So go ahead, break the rules, and create something extraordinary.

Additional Information:

Video: Top 10 (No Substrate) Beginner Aquarium Plants!

Video: 5 Things I Wish I Knew About Substrates for Planted Aquariums