The Goldfish Care Guide – The Latest Advice For New Goldfish Owners
Updated September 12th, 2025
What Size Aquarium Is Needed For Goldfish?
Forget the goldfish bowl—and even many of the tanks you see recommended online. A fancy goldfish can easily grow to over 10 inches long. So while many websites might suggest a 20 or 30-gallon tank, a standard 30-gallon aquarium is only about three feet long and 12 inches wide.
Imagine a 10-inch goldfish in a tank like that. It would be like a person living their entire life in a room that’s 10 feet long and only 3 feet wide. That’s why a goldfish bowl, or even a smaller tank, is not a suitable home.
A single goldfish needs a lot more space to thrive. I recommend a minimum of a 55-gallon aquarium for one goldfish and a 100-gallon aquarium for two.
Goldfish: More Than Just Bowl Dwellers
Contrary to popular belief, goldfish are much more interesting than their reputation as simple “bowl fish” suggests. These captivating creatures—Carassius auratus—have been part of human history for over 1,000 years, dating back to their domestication in ancient China. Originally dull-colored carp from East Asian rivers, goldfish have evolved into one of the most diverse and cherished aquarium species in the world.
Physical Traits and Varieties
Goldfish come in a wide range of sizes and shapes.
* Common goldfish and comets can grow up to 10–14 inches, resembling sleek, fast-moving torpedoes.
* Fancy goldfish varieties are smaller, usually reaching 4–8 inches, and are known for their ornamental beauty.
Think of commons and comets as the athletes of the goldfish world—streamlined and built for speed. Fancy goldfish, on the other hand, are more like living sculptures, with rounded bodies, flowing fins, and distinctive features.
Each fancy variety has its own charm:
* Fantails: Known for their elegant double tails that sway gracefully.
* Orandas: Recognizable by the fleshy “wen” cap on their heads, giving them a perpetually surprised look.
* Ryukins: Feature a pronounced hump behind the head, creating a dramatic silhouette.
* Telescope goldfish: Famous for their protruding eyes that give them a whimsical appearance.

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Information about fish mentioned in this aricle:
⇒ Bristlenose / Bushynose Plecostomus Care – The Ultimate Guide
⇒ Zebrafish, Zebra Danio Care – What to feed, how to breed, tank setup
Other Goldfish articles on this site:
⇒ What is the right size tank for Goldfish?
Other helpful information:
⇒ Finding the Perfect Size Aquarium for Your Home
⇒ How to Feed Your Fish Like a Pro: 9+ Foods They’ll Love
⇒ 6 Steps To Easily Clean Your Aquarium Without Removing The Fish
Water Conditions & Filtration Tips
One of the most common mistakes goldfish owners make is assuming they’re tropical fish. They’re not. Goldfish thrive in cooler water—ideally between 65–75°F. Keeping them in warmer tropical tanks (78–80°F) can cause stress and sluggish behavior.
Goldfish are surprisingly resilient to seasonal changes. Cooler winter temperatures (around 60–65°F) can actually improve their health and trigger natural breeding behaviors in spring. It’s like a mini reset for their biological clock.
Basic Water Parameters:
* Temperature: 65–75°F (cooler is usually better)
* pH: 6.5–8.0 (stable levels are more important than exact numbers)
* Hardness: 5–20 dGH (moderate is ideal)
* Ammonia & Nitrite: Always zero—this is critical
* Nitrate: Keep below 40 ppm; under 20 ppm is best
Filtration & Maintenance
Goldfish are messy—think of them as the golden retrievers of the aquarium world: lovable, but not exactly tidy. Because of their high waste output, your filtration system needs to be powerful.
* Choose a filter rated for 2–3 times your tank’s volume, not just the tank size.
* Canister filters are ideal for larger tanks—they offer strong biological filtration and handle waste efficiently.
* Hang-on-back filters can work for smaller tanks, but they’ll need frequent cleaning.
Make sure the water flow is gentle, especially for fancy goldfish. Their delicate fins and round bodies aren’t built for strong currents.
Weekly Maintenance:
* Change 25–30% of the water every week.
* Use a gravel vacuum to remove debris and waste from the substrate.
Regular maintenance will keep your goldfish vibrant, active, and healthy.
Diet & Feeding
A healthy goldfish diet starts with high-quality sinking pellets. Sinking is key—floating pellets can cause goldfish to gulp air at the surface, leading to swim bladder issues that make them swim sideways or even upside-down. Not exactly the aquatic acrobatics you want to see.
Pellet Tips:
* Size matters: Young goldfish need small pellets they can easily eat; adults can handle larger ones.
* Protein content:
* Juveniles: 35–40% protein to support growth
* Adults: 25–30% to avoid kidney strain
Veggie Time:
Goldfish love vegetables!
* Blanched peas (shells removed) are a favorite and act as a natural laxative.
* Spinach, zucchini, and cucumber make great treats—just weigh them down so your goldfish can nibble comfortably.
Protein Treats:
* Brine Shrimp: Tasty but rich—use sparingly, like dessert.
* Daphnia: Excellent for digestion and a safer regular treat.
Feeding Schedule:
* Adults: Feed once or twice daily, only what they can eat in 2–3 minutes.
* Young fish: 3–4 smaller meals per day.
* Pro tip: Fast adult goldfish one day a week to support digestion and mimic natural feeding cycles.
Avoid human food like bread or crackers—they expand in the stomach and pollute the tank.
Tank Environment
Substrate
Goldfish love to forage, so the tank bottom matters.
* Smooth river gravel (4–6mm): Ideal for natural behavior without choking hazards
* Fine sand: Mimics natural habitats but requires more cleaning to prevent waste buildup
* Bare-bottom tanks: Great for easy maintenance, though less stimulating for your fish
Decorations
Goldfish explore with their mouths, so safety is key.
* Avoid sharp edges and lightweight items—they’ll get knocked around
* Driftwood: Beautiful, but boil it first to remove tannins
* Smooth rocks & slate: Great for caves and hiding spots
* Skip limestone or coral: They raise pH levels
* Goldfish feel safer with places to hide. Add caves, tunnels, or dense plant zones to reduce stress and encourage natural behavior.
Plants
Live plants look great and help water quality—but goldfish often treat them like a buffet. The trick is choosing tough or fast-growing varieties.
Goldfish-Friendly Plants:
* Anubias: Thick, bitter leaves; attach to rocks or wood to prevent uprooting
* Java fern: Similar benefits, plus natural anti-nibbling chemicals
* Vallisneria: Works if planted densely—expect some losses
* Hornwort: Grows rapidly and floats freely, making it hard for goldfish to destroy
If live plants feel too risky, high-quality silk plants offer a safe, attractive alternative. Just avoid plastic plants with sharp edges.
Lighting
Goldfish don’t need fancy lighting, but they do benefit from a consistent routine.
* Photoperiod: 8–12 hours per day using LED lights
* Full-spectrum LEDs (5000–7000K): Enhance goldfish colors and support plant growth
Too much light = algae overload. Keep it balanced to avoid endless scrubbing.
Behavior & Tankmates
Forget the myth about goldfish having three-second memories—it’s simply not true. Goldfish are surprisingly intelligent. They can recognize their owners, learn feeding routines, and even be trained to swim through hoops or play simple games. Many goldfish keepers insist their fish have distinct personalities and preferences.
Goldfish are social animals and enjoy the company of others. However, they do establish a pecking order in groups. Larger or more assertive individuals often dominate feeding time, so it’s best to keep fish of similar size together to prevent bullying and ensure everyone gets enough food.
Choosing Tankmates:
Goldfish prefer cooler water, which limits their compatibility with most tropical fish. Many tropical species can’t tolerate the lower temperatures goldfish thrive in, and even those that can may not be ideal companions.
* Best tankmates: Other goldfish—just be mindful of pairing similar types.
* Commons and comets are fast swimmers and may outcompete slower fancy varieties for food.
* Fancy goldfish do best with other fancies that have similar swimming abilities.
* Compatible species:
* White Cloud Mountain Minnows
* Weather Loaches (Dojo Loaches)
* Bristlenose Plecos
* Apple Snails
Avoid: Aggressive fish like cichlids or fin-nippers such as barbs—they’ll stress out your peaceful goldfish.
Common Health Issues
The good news? Most goldfish health problems are preventable with proper care. The bad news? If something goes wrong, it can escalate quickly. Staying observant is key.
Ich (White Spot Disease)
This common parasite looks like white grains of salt on your fish. Infected goldfish may scratch against decorations and breathe rapidly.
* Treatment: Gradually raise the temperature to 78–80°F to speed up the parasite’s lifecycle.
* Salt therapy: 1 tablespoon per 5 gallons often works.
* Alternative: Commercial ich medications are also effective.
Swim Bladder Issues
Symptoms include swimming sideways, upside-down, or struggling to stay balanced.
* Cause: Often due to overfeeding or gulping air from floating foods.
* Treatment: Fast the fish for 24–48 hours, then offer blanched peas or other easy-to-digest foods.
Note: Fancy goldfish (fat body) are more prone to swim bladder issues due to their body shape.
Fin Rot
Starts as frayed fin edges and can progress to blackened, deteriorating fins.
* Mild cases: Improve water quality and use salt treatment.
* Severe cases: May require antibiotics.
Tip: Catch fin rot early—once it reaches the body, recovery is much harder.
Digestive Problems
Constipation is common, especially in overfed fish. Signs include bloating, inactivity, and long trailing feces.
* Solution: Fast for 1–2 days, then feed fiber-rich veggies like peas or spinach.
* Reminder: Goldfish lack stomachs, so their digestive systems are easily overwhelmed.
Environmental Stress
Poor water quality is the leading cause of goldfish deaths.
* Symptoms: Red, inflamed gills, gasping at the surface, or sudden lethargy.
* Triggers: Ammonia/nitrite spikes, temperature shocks, or rapid changes in water chemistry.
* Prevention: Maintain stable water conditions and make changes gradually.
Prevention is everything:
* Keep water parameters stable
* Feed appropriately
* Quarantine new fish
* Observe daily for early warning signs
Thoughts
Goldfish thrive when you embrace their true nature: cool-water fish that produce a lot of waste and grow continuously. Give them proper temperatures, strong filtration, and plenty of space, and they’ll reward you with years of beauty, personality, and companionship.
Goldfish keeping isn’t a short-term hobby—it’s a long-term commitment. That tiny fish at the pet store could live 20–30 years with the right care. So plan ahead, enjoy the process, and prepare to be amazed by how engaging these so-called “simple” fish truly are.
Below: Oranda Goldfish

Common Goldfish Diseases and Cures
Goldfish are quite hardy, but all the selective breeding that goes into creating fancy goldfish does come with a few downsides. One of them is the fact that fancy goldfish are more prone to certain health issues.
Prevention Vs. Cure
While it’s essential to know the treatments for these diseases, prevention is always a better strategy. A clean tank, proper filtration, regular water changes, and a balanced diet can prevent most common goldfish diseases. Stress is a significant factor that can make fish susceptible to illnesses.
By avoiding diseases in the first place, you save yourself the heartache and hassle of treating sick fish. You also ensure a happier, healthier life for your aquatic pets. A little preventative care can go a long way in keeping your goldfish disease-free!
Discus Fish Care Guide For Beginners

Disease: Ich (White Spot Disease)
Symptoms
Tiny white spots on fins and body, fish rubbing against objects.
Treatment
Increase water temperature slightly for a short period, use specialized Ich treatments available at pet stores.
Image: Ich (white spots on fins)

Disease: Dropsey
Symptoms
Bloating, scales sticking out (making fish look like a pinecone).
Treatment
This is often a sign of internal bacterial infection. Antibiotics might help, but prognosis is often poor.
Image: Dropsey

Fin Rot
Symptoms
Fraying, disintegrating, or discolored fins, sometimes white edges.
Treatment
Improve water quality, apply antibacterial fish treatments.
Image: Fin Rot

Fungus
Symptoms
Cotton-like growths on skin, loss of appetite.
Treatment
Anti-fungal medications, improve water quality.
Image: Fungus

Swim Bladder Disease
Symptoms
Fish has difficulty swimming, might float upside down or on its side.
Treatment
Feed a high-fiber diet, like peas, and consider fasting the fish for a day or two.
Image: Swim Bladder Disease

By Humanfeather / Michelle Jo – Own work, CC BY 3.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10174720
