Beautiful Planted Aquarium Without Substrate, Only Stones & Driftwood

How To Keep Plants Anchored Without A Substrate

I’ve used several ways to keep plants in place without using substrate.

Most of the time I use aquarium-safe super glue gel. I’ve found it faster and easier than trying to tie a plant to a rock while wondering why I didn’t take up stamp collecting instead.

Apply a tiny amount of super glue to a dry section of rock or driftwood, press the plant into place, and hold it for about 30 seconds. After that, I put the rock or driftwood back in the aquarium. I’ve sometimes noticed a little white residue afterward, but it hasn’t caused a problem in my tanks.

I’ve also used cotton thread for mosses. Wrap dark thread around the moss and hardscape in a crisscross pattern. The idea is for the moss to attach to the rock or wood before the cotton thread eventually breaks down.

One idea I haven’t tried yet is lightly roughening a smooth attachment point with sandpaper. My thought is that the small scratches might give roots and rhizomes a better surface to grab onto. I’ll have to try it and see.

Below Are 7 Good Plants For Your Planted Aquarium Without Substrate

1. Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Image above: Java Fern – Amazon seller image

Java Fern usually has dark green leaves, although their shape and width depend on the variety. Java Fern grows from a thick rhizome that doesn’t have be buried in substrate, which makes it particularly useful in a substrate-free aquarium.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve attached Java Fern to rocks and driftwood, but I’ve also let it float freely, like my Java plant in the photo above.

I started growning Java Fern in my aquarium several years ago. I’ve taken out a very mature Java Fern and threw it away many times, but there is always baby JF hiding and growing somewhere.

In fact I did this a couple of weeks ago and found 2 or 3 baby J Ferns growing in the tank. I’ll leave it until it is too big and then start again. 

• Light: Low to very bright – CO2: Not required but responds well to supplementation – Fertilization: Not required if there are fish in the tank with it. – Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

Image above: Java Fern in my 30 gallon aquarium. No CO2, no fertilizers.

Images above, a free floating java fern in my 30 gallon tank.

The Java Fern below is available from Amazon Live Plants. Tap here or image to view selection. Amazon seller image.

2. Anubias (Various Species)

The anubais plant above is for sale on Amazon. Tap here for current price.

Anubias has thick green leaves that grow from a rhizome. The size and shape of the leaves depend on the variety. Anubias nana ‘Petite’ has leaves barely larger than a fingernail, while Anubias barteri can produce leaves as large as playing cards. New leaves emerge light green and darken as they mature.

Aquascaping Ideas:

Note: Like Java Fern, I don’t bury the Anubias rhizome. 

Anubias plants can be attached to slate, lava rock, or driftwood.

Light: Low to moderate – CO2: Optional – Fertilization: Light – Growth Rate: Slow

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The Anubias plant below is available from Amazon Live Plants. Tap here or image to view selection. Amazon seller image.

The Anubias plant below is available from Amazon Live Plants, Canton Aquatics. Tap here or image to view selection. Amazon seller image.

3. Bucephalandra (Various Species)

You can buy Bucephalandra from Amazon. Tap here or the image for the current price.

Bucephalandra (“buce”) is a relatively recent addition to aquarium plants.

This is a rhizome type plant. Google’s dictionary defines a rhizome as “a continuously growing horizontal underground stem which puts out lateral shoots and adventitious roots at intervals.”

Buce leaves are typically small, ranging from rounded to elongated shapes, and are somewhat metallic looking. The leaves show blue, purple, and even pink under different lighting conditions. The leaves can be smooth or textured depending on the variety.

New leaves are where the colors really pop. They can be right pink, deep purple, or dark red.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-84°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light to moderate
• Growth Rate: Very slow

*   What Wikipedia says about Bucephalandra

The Buce plant below is available from Amazon Live Plants, Substrate Source Store. Tap here or image to view selection. Amazon seller image.

4. Bolbitis (Bolbitis heudelotii)

Bolbitis heudelotii can be purchased from Amazon by tapping here or tapping the image.

Bolbitis has divided green leaves that give it a much different look from plants such as Java Fern and Anubias. One thing I like about Bolbitis is how the leaves look when light shines through them. 

I’ve noticed new growth starts out curled and reddish-brown before opening into green leaves. 

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve had good luck using Bolbitis as a mid-ground or background plant attached to rocks and driftwood.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 70-84°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Moderate
• CO2: Beneficial for optimal growth
• Fertilization: Moderate
• Growth Rate: Moderate

5. Christmas Moss (Vesicularia montagnei)

Buy Christmas Moss from Amazon by tapping here.

I don’t need substrate to grow Christmas Moss. I can attach it to rocks, driftwood, or mesh and let it spread from there.

Christmas Moss gets its name from the way its branches can resemble tiny Christmas trees.The branches grow outward in a somewhat triangular pattern, which gives Christmas Moss its recognizable shape.

The moss is usually green to dark green, while new growth can be noticeably lighter. As it fills in, Christmas Moss can form a thick mat.

Once it grows thick, the moss also gives shrimp and small fry plenty of places to hide and forage.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Light: Low to moderate
• CO2: Beneficial but not required
• Fertilization: Light
• Growth Rate: Moderate

6. Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Buy Hygrophila Pinnatifida from Amazon by tapping here.

I’ve grown Hygrophila pinnatifida attached directly to rocks and driftwood instead of planting it in substrate. Its deeply cut leaves grow along the stem and give it a much different appearance from most of the other plants in my tanks. 

I’ve found that it can adapt to different growing conditions. In stronger light, mine has grown more compactly and developed stronger coloration. In lower light, I’ve noticed greener, more stretched-out growth.

It also produces roots along the stem that can grab onto nearby rocks and driftwood. That’s one reason I’ve been able to grow it without substrate. .

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve used H. pinnatifida in the middle areas of my aquariums, usually attached to rock or driftwood.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 70-82°F
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Light: Moderate to high
• CO2: Highly recommended
• Fertilization: Moderate to heavy
• Growth Rate: Moderate to fast

7. Weeping Moss (Vesicularia ferriei)

Buy weeping moss from Amazon by tapping here or the image.

Weeping Moss gets its name from the way the leaves grow downward.

The small leaves give the strands a somewhat feathery appearance. Mine is usually dark green, with the newer growth appearing somewhat lighter.

Aquascaping Ideas:

Since Weeping Moss doesn’t need to be planted in substrate, it can attach it directly to rocks or driftwood.

I frequently attach Weeping Moss higher up on driftwood or rocks so the moss can grow downward.

I’ve also attached it to overhanging branches where there’s plenty of room for it to grow downward.

Ideal Parameters:

• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Light: Low to high (adapts well)
• CO2: Not required but promotes fuller growth
• Fertilization: Light to moderate
• Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

6.  Mini Pellia (Riccardia chamedryfolia)

Mini Pellia is one of the smallest plants I grown in my substrate-free aquarium.

It has tiny branching growth that can eventually form a thick green mat.

Aquascaping Ideas:

I’ve used small pieces in cracks and crevices, and it can also be grown across flatter surfaces to create a carpet.

Ideal Parameters:

Temperature: 68-79°F – pH: 5.5-7.5 – Light: Low to moderate – CO2: Beneficial but not required – Fertilization: Light if at all – Growth Rate: Very slow

7.  Subwassertang (Lomariopsis lineata)

Besides its unusual name, Subwassertang is one of the more unusual plants you can grow without substrate

It grows in irregular branches that eventually form thick clumps. Mine has usually been a fairly bright green. It has a surprisingly firm, almost a little plastic-like when I handle it.

If I let it grow, it can form thick, almost ball-shaped clumps that are easy to trim

Aquascaping ideas using Subwassertang in a planted aquarium without substrate:

You can attached Subwassertang to rocks and driftwood, but I’ve also let clumps of it grow freely in the tank.

It can be placed between rocks and pieces of driftwood where it can fill some of the empty spaces, given enough time.

Ideal Water Parameters:

Temperature: 68-82°F     pH: 5.5-8.0     Light: Low to moderate     CO2: Optional     Fertilization: Light if at all     Growth Rate: Slow to moderate

Adding Floating Plants To A Substrate Free Aquarium

Image above is Frogbit.
You can buy Frogbit from Amazon. Tap here or the picture.

Floating plants are another option because, obviously, they don’t need substrate either.

After keeping several types of floating plants, I’ve learned a few things about managing them

1. Amazon Frogbit:
   • • Airline tubing can be used to keep Frogbit contained in one area of the tank
     • The roots can get surprisingly long. I trim mine when they start getting longer than I want.
     • I remove old or damaged leaves when I see them.
     • Frogbit also shades the tank, which can be useful in some areas but a problem for plants underneath it.
     • Frogbit can spread quickly. I thin mine out when it starts covering too much of the surface, especially if it’s blocking light from the plants below.

1. Red Root Floaters:
   • • I’ve noticed mine develop better color when they get plenty of light.
     • I remove dead or dying leaves when I see them.
     • I try to keep them away from heavy surface movement and splashing.
     • Like my other floating plants, when I grow them, I thin them when they start covering too much of the surface and blocking light from the plants below.

1. Salvinia:
   • • I usually thin mine about once a week because they can spread quickly
     • I leave some open areas so light can reach the plants below.
     • A floating ring can also keep them contained to one part of the tank.

One problem you can run into with these floating options is their growth rate. If I don’t keep them thinned out, they can eventually cover much of the surface.

In my tanks, I generally don’t let floating plants cover more than about half the surface.

I’ve found it easier to remove a few plants regularly rather than waiting until they’ve taken over the top of the tank.

Watch the plants below for signs they’re not getting enough light, such as pale or stretched-out growth.

If I notice this, I thin out some of the floating plants.

Every aquarium is different, so you’ll have to see how much surface coverage works in your tank.

Image below is a Red Root Floater Plant. You can buy Red Root Floaters by tapping here or the image.

Caveat

Some of these plants aren’t commonly used in substrate-free aquariums, but I’ve had good luck growing them this way.

Some take a while to attach to rocks or driftwood, so don’t worry if they don’t grab on right away

Creating Depth Without Substrate: The Art of Hardscape

Without substrate, I can’t build slopes or raise certain areas of the tank, so I have to create height another way.

I learned this lesson the hard way with my first attempt, which ended up looking flat and uninspiring. That’s when I started using rocks and driftwood to create the height I was missing.

Dragon Stone

Dragon Stone is a nearly perfect stone for just about any aquarium. Its rough surface gives plenty of places to attach plants. The stones can stack different-sized pieces to create height.

I can then attach different plants at each level instead of having everything growing at the same height.

Spider Wood

Spider Wood can also be used to add height.

The branches give me places at different heights to attach plants such as Anubias, Java Fern, and mosses.

I’ve also combined several pieces of Spider Wood to get branches reaching from near the bottom toward the top of the tank.

Besides giving me more places for plants, the branches also give my fish places to swim around and hide.

How I Fertilize a Planted Aquarium Without Substrate

Without substrate, most of my plants get their nutrients from the water.

I learned pretty quickly that I couldn’t ignore fertilizer. Some of my plants developed yellow leaves and weren’t growing very well.

I eventually started adding smaller amounts of fertilizer more often.

Instead of adding my fertilizer once a week, I divide that amount into smaller daily doses. After switching to smaller daily doses, I noticed better growth and color in my plants.

Within weeks of switching to this method, I noticed improved color, stronger growth, and better overall plant vitality.

I’ve also experimented with adding iron, especially for some of my red plants.

I don’t go crazy with it, though. More fertilizer isn’t automatically better.

A Few Advanced Techniques

How I Create a Moss Carpet Without Substrate

1. Prepare The Mesh:
   • • I cut stainless steel mesh into sections about 4 x 4 inches. I’ve found that size easy to work with.
     • Several smaller sections are easier to maintain than one large piece.
     • I sand down any sharp edges.
     • Sometimes I bend the mesh slightly instead of leaving it completely flat.
     • I thoroughly clean and rinse the mesh before putting it in the aquarium.

1. Attachment Phase:
   • • Separate the moss into small, thin portions (about the size of a quarter).
     • Spread a thin layer of moss across the mesh.
     • Use fishing line to hold the moss against the mesh.

1. Growth and Maintenance:
   • • As the moss grows trim it to keep the carpet from getting too thick.
     • Remove any dead or unhealthy-looking moss when you see it.
     • If an area’s growth stays thin, I can add another small piece of moss.

You can use Weeping Moss for this because its downward growth works well for a carpet effect.

Maintaining Your Substrate-Free Aquascape

Setting up a substrate-free planted tank is just the first step.

Once it’s set up, I still have to keep the plants healthy and everything under control.

Here is what I do:

Water Changes

I do regular water changes. I usually change about 30% of the aquarium water each week. That water is replaced with reverse osmosis filtered water.

I try to keep the new water reasonably close to the temperature of the aquarium.

Since I use reverse osmosis water I don’t need to use a dechlorinator although you probably should if you’re not using R.O. water.

Plant Care

I would recommend regularly look over the plants for dead or damaged leaves. When I see a dying leaf, I remove it.

Trim plants when they start getting too large or are blocking light from other plants. I focus on maintaining the desired shape while encouraging dense, compact growth with high light levels.

Fast-growing plants sometimes need extra trimming so they don’t crowd or shade the slower-growing plants.

Note: A crucial aspect often overlooked is checking plant attachments.

What starts as a slight loosening can quickly become a floating plant if left unchecked. If I find one coming loose, I reattach it before it ends up floating around the tank.

I look to see that the plants are still securely attached to the rocks and driftwood. 

Trouble Shooting Your Substrate-Free Aquarium

Even after years of keeping planted aquariums, I still run into problems occasionally.

Here are a couple I’ve dealt with.

The Battle Against Algae

Without substrate, I tend to notice algae growing on rocks, driftwood, glass, and plant leaves.

Growing lights left on more then 6 hours a day can encourage algae, although there can be other causes.

I start by checking how much light the tank is getting and whether my plants are growing well.

When algae does appear, I resist the urge to make dramatic changes.

I usually start by reducing the number of hours the lights are on. Then I might reduce that a little and see if that helps.

I also remove as much algae as I can by hand when doing water changes.”

Dealing With Plant Detachment

Sometimes plants come loose from the rocks or driftwood they’re attached to.

For stem plants, you might want to try creating multiple attachment points along the stem rather than just at the base provides better stability as the plant grows.

With Anubias and Java Fern, I attach the rhizome to a rock or piece of driftwood rather than burying it.

I’ve used cotton thread and fishing line to hold plants in place until they attach themselves. I make sure the thread or fishing line is tight enough to hold the plant but not so tight that it damages it.

Selecting Livestock for Substrate-Free Systems

You can buy many different types of fish from Amazon. Tap here or the image.

When choosing fish for a substrate-free aquarium, I look for species that spend most of their time swimming among plants rather than digging through the bottom. Small, peaceful fish are usually my first choice because they’re less likely to disturb plants attached to rocks and driftwood.

Small Schooling/Shoaling Fish

• Ember Tetras (Hyphessobrycon amandae)
  • Small and unlikely to damage attached plants.
  • Striking red coloration
  • Tight schooling behavior creates dynamic movement. Often swim together, especially when they feel threatened.
• Celestial Pearl Danios (Danio margaritatus)
  • Peaceful nature
  • Beautiful spotting pattern
  • These fish frequently occupy the lower and middle portions of planted aquariums, often staying close to vegetation.
  • Celestial Pearl Danios are shoaling fish, but they don’t necessarily form tight schools.
• Green Neon Tetras (Paracheirodon simulans)
  • More subtle than regular neons
  • Excellent schooling behavior
  • Less likely to nibble on plants than their cousins
• Chili Rasboras (Boraras brigittae)
  • Small enough for appropriately stocked nano aquariums.
  • Brilliant red coloration
  • Unlikely to damage plants

Mid-Level Swimmers

• Harlequin Rasboras (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)
• Hardy and adaptable
• Peaceful temperament
• Copper-colored bodies stand out against green plants
• Pearl Gourami (Trichopodus leerii)
• Graceful movement
• Peaceful disposition but individuals can become territorial, particularly during breeding.
• Lambchop Rasboras (Trigonostigma espei)
• Similar to Harlequins but smaller
• Excellent for smaller to medium-sized tanks
• Strong schooling instinct

Upper Level Specialists

• Marble Hatchetfish (Carnegiella strigata)
• Distinctive hatchet-shaped body.
• Stays near surface
• Unlikely to disturb attached plants.”
• Clown Killifish (Epiplatys annulatus)
• Striped body with colorful tail markings.
• Suitable for carefully stocked nano aquariums.
• Spends much of its time near the surface.

Invertebrates

Shrimp

• Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)
• Excellent algae control but won’t eat every type of algae
• Won’t damage healthy plants
• Often active and easy to observe.
• Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)
• Striking coloration
• Prolific breeders (depends on tank conditions)
• Constantly grazes on biofilm and soft algae.
• Blue Dream Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi var. blue)
• Beautiful contrast with plants
• Same care as Cherry shrimp
• Grazes on biofilm and decaying organic matter

Snails

• Nerite Snails (Neritina species)
• Excellent at grazing algae from glass and hardscape
• Cannot reproduce in freshwater
• Multiple color varieties available

Specialty Invertebrates

• Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)
  • Uses fan-shaped appendages to catch tiny food particles floating in the water.
  • Unlikely to disturb attached plants.
  • Bamboo shrimp can starve in aquariums that don’t provide enough suspended food.

• Thai Micro Crabs (Limnopilos naiyanetri)
  • Tiny and peaceful
  • Climbs plants and driftwood without normally damaging them.
  • Spends much of its time hiding among plants and filtering tiny food particles.

Special Considerations

• Research bottom-dwelling fish carefully. Some species need sand or other substrate for natural behavior.
• Choose fish that won’t uproot, eat, or regularly knock loose your plants.
• Consider fish that naturally inhabit heavily planted areas.

Other pages on this site:

⇒  5 easiest fish for beginners

⇒  Planted aquarium without substrate

⇒  How to keep freshwater shrimp

⇒ 10 fast growing plants to help control algae in the planted aquarium

⇒  Taking photos of your aquarium using your smartphone

⇒  Feeding aquarium fish

⇒ 10 worst aquarium plants

⇒ Nighttime in an aquarium

⇒  Aquarium Hobbyist Books & Gifts

⇒  My Top 3 Steps To Have Healthy Fish and A Healthy Aquarium